Introduction:
While revisiting my Beaujolais Project posts on Substack, I realized I never wrote about Morgon. How could I overlook the "King of Beaujolais?" Morgon was one of the Crus I was most excited to explore. During that month, I traveled back to Korea and went out of town for performances, which kept me from writing about it. But as they say, better late than never. So, here we go.
Morgon is one of the larger Crus in Beaujolais, and when people refer to so-called “great Beaujolais wines,” they are often talking about this highly acclaimed Cru. Situated in the heart of the Beaujolais region, Morgon shares borders with Fleurie, Chiroubles, Régnié, and Brouilly.
As we’ve seen in previous Beaujolais explorations, soil composition plays a crucial role in producing more complex Gamay wines. Granite, a key contributor, is abundant in Morgon. In addition to granite, the region boasts plenty of schist (or decomposed shale) and even a touch of volcanic rock, particularly in the famed Côte du Py. This hill is celebrated as one of the best spots in Morgon, thanks to its complex soils and ideal sun exposure. Other noteworthy lieux-dits in Morgon, aside from Côte du Py, include Aux Charmes, Corcelette, Grands Cras, Douby, Aux Chênes, Javernière, Château Gaillard, Bellevue, and Fontriante.
This highly regarded cru is home to many talented and passionate winemakers. Numerous domaines are based in Morgon, with many growers and producers drawing inspiration from the Beaujolais legend, Jules Chauvet. For more about him and his vision for Beaujolais wine, I highly recommend Kermit Lynch’s Adventures on the Wine Route.
Notably, domaines such as Guy Breton, Marcel Lapierre, Jean Foillard, and Jean-Paul Thévenet—collectively known as the “Gang of Four”—continue to champion Chauvet’s philosophy of true Beaujolais winemaking.
Rich in soil, knowledge, and winemaking history, Morgon is undoubtedly a standout cru to explore on any Beaujolais journey. It’s easy to see why so many of my wine friends hold this cru in such high regard.
During my month of Morgon, I tasted three bottles. The first two were part of my original list, while the third was a delightful find at a small wine shop in upstate New York during a trip out of town.
2021 Jean-Marc Burgaud Morgon Les Charmes
Hailing from one of Morgon’s more renowned lieux-dits, this cuvée offered pronounced aromas and flavors that stood out. The winemaker, Jean-Marc Burgaud, comes from a winemaking family in Lantignié, an almost-Cru region in Beaujolais. His connection to Morgon began with his wife, whose family is rooted in the area. After tasting a 20-year-old Côte du Py from his now father-in-law, he became a firm believer in the potential of fine Cru Beaujolais wines.
Burgaud advocates for crafting Beaujolais with ripe grapes to achieve mature tannins, and he carefully macerates the wine just long enough to extract tannins without bitterness or unwanted green notes. His “Les Charmes” cuvée comes from old vines planted in 1933 on granite soils, yielding richness and a mature tannin structure.
I particularly enjoyed its well-balanced medley of black cherry, red cherry, black plum, blueberry, blackberry, cinnamon, nutmeg, umami, star anise, strawberry, and cream. At just $19 from Empire Wine in Albany, this wine is a hidden gem that will age beautifully. If you’re looking for something special at a reasonable price, this is the bottle to seek out.
2020 Guy Breton Morgon Vieilles Vignes
As one of the Gang of Four, tasting Guy Breton’s wines is always a delight. Deceptively simple yet layered with complexity, this old-vine cuvée was a standout. Notes of red plum, red cherry, raspberry, red Jolly Rancher, and baking spices danced on the palate, supported by fine tannins and vibrant fruitiness.
Breton’s winemaking philosophy is simple: to create wines he enjoys drinking himself. From a particularly hot summer, this wine showcases a light and silky texture, making it an exceptionally pleasant drinking experience while maintaining full concentration of fruit from 80-year-old vines planted on granite soil.
Every time I spot Guy Breton’s iconic Cru Beaujolais labels in a shop, I know exactly what I’ll be stocking up on.
2022 Jean-Marc Lafont Morgon Côte du Py
I came across this wine while traveling in upstate New York for performances. The location of the music festival wasn’t exactly known for winemaking or reputable wine shops—or at least none that didn’t require a 90-minute round trip to a nearby town. Given the circumstances, I visited the largest store in the area, picked up this bottle, and shared it with friends.
The 2022 vintage was marked by abundant sunshine, resulting in fully concentrated fruit flavors thanks to the low yields. Hailing from one of Morgon’s most esteemed lieux-dits, Côte du Py, this cuvée delivered a powerful performance. It showcased a vibrant array of aromas and flavors, including blueberry, blackberry, black cherry, violet, black plum, soy sauce (umami), baking spices, and a symphony of purple and black fruits.
Without proper drinking vessels, detecting the full spectrum of aromas was a bit challenging, but the experience remained thoroughly enjoyable. The wine’s soft tannins and umami richness suggest excellent aging potential, promising greater complexity with time. While I initially worried that opening this wine might have been premature, it continued to shine over the course of the evening, making for a delightful and memorable experience.
Morgon is a cru I plan to continue exploring even after the Beaujolais Project concludes, thanks to its powerful performance, diverse group of winemakers, and various microclimates that contribute to unique outcomes in the bottle. Given the exceptional ageability of Morgon wines, I wouldn’t hesitate to stock up on a few gems whenever I see them in stores, allowing them to evolve over the years. In my humble opinion, aged Gamay from Morgon often drinks like a well-aged Burgundian Pinot Noir. At the same time, with its relatively affordable price for such high quality, it's equally enjoyable to experience the young, fresh expressions of fine Morgon wines.
These are the winemakers from Morgon I plan to stock up on and enjoy down the road: Mee Godard, Marcel Lapierre, Guy Breton, Jean Foillard, Jean-Paul Thevenét, Jean Louis Dutraive (Domaine de la Grand’Cour), Domaine Chapel, and Louis-Claude Desvignes.