Introduction:
Busy, busy, and busy. Settling into a new place, figuring out the new job… yeah, all the excuses. I have not been attentive with my Substack, which has been in the back of my head for some time. I thought I might leave a quick note on wines that were memorable rather than writing an in-depth, long article.
Definitely not intended, but it turned out to be German week. The final week of April was my last week of the first academic year I completed here. I wanted to celebrate surviving in a new place that is completely different from what I knew, and finishing the year strong. I wanted to open things that are really me — ones I would love to drink.
2023 Peter Lauer Kern Riesling N°9
Peter Lauer’s Riesling is always a winner. I have such a soft spot for off-dry Riesling. On one of my trips to Woodland Wine Merchant to pick up my accumulated wine cases (it is my go-to shop in Nashville), I asked Jami to recommend some bottles of off-dry Riesling. She pointed me toward the 2023 Peter Lauer Kern Riesling No. 9 and the 2023 Dönnhoff Niederhäuser Klamm Riesling Kabinett. The Dönnhoff was enjoyed early in the year — gone very quickly.
I opened the Peter Lauer in April to celebrate wrapping up the academic year. It was delicious. I don’t care what others say about off-dry wine, because I love it. The laser-sharp acidity is well balanced by the residual sugar, which also contributes to a nicely coating mouthfeel.
Yellow and white peaches, lemon, petrol, banana, nectarine, herbs, yuzu, quince, lemon peel, orange, blossom, wet stone.
What I love about off-dry Riesling is that it pairs so easily with a lot of Asian food. I have done this many times with Thai and Indian cuisines, but this time I paired it with Pig Trotter (족발). It is a rather common dish if you’re in Korea, but in Middle Tennessee, it is a rare find and quite the delicacy. Pig trotter is boiled in a broth made of soy sauce, spices to mute the pork smell, soybean paste, garlic, ginger, black vinegar, and so on. Once boiled and cooled, it is served sliced. It was a lovely pairing — the Riesling’s sharp acidity cut right through the richness and gelatinousness of the pork.
2023 Wasenhaus Spätburgunder
A few days later, with not much going on, I wanted to open something on a whim. I had been holding off on the Wasenhaus Spätburgunder for a while — also from one of my Woodland Wine Merchant trips. Remembering my time in New York and New Jersey, Wasenhaus wines typically sell out within hours of hitting the market. In Nashville, I was lucky to find their entry-level Pinot Noir without a fight. When I asked Jami about her Wasenhaus tasting experience, she said she really loved it and found it incredibly easy to drink.
And it really was delicious. It took some time to open up. Upon uncorking, the wine was quite muted, but as it breathed, the aromas and flavors started unleashing themselves and filled the dining room.
Red cherry, raspberry, baking spice, yoghurt, violet, rose, blossom, boysenberry, concord grape.
The hue was more longer-macerated rosé-like than a traditional Pinot Noir. It reminded me of Sylvain Pataille’s Fleur de Pinot Marsannay Rosé, which I enjoyed last summer — another wine I found marvellous.
I go back and forth with natural wines. When it is the right one, it can be truly amazing and offer an unexpected experience. Because of that, I am extremely careful with purchasing them, relying on recommendations from professionals and winemakers I already trust. This Spätburgunder was definitely natty — but it was so pure and clean that the wine showed the best of both worlds, natty and conventional.
As a Jura wine lover, I might have called it a Poulsard if presented to me blind. It had a slight haziness, a juicy quality, lots of red fruit notes, and a touch of yeastiness. In fact, my wife said it reminded her of tasting Ganevat’s Cuvée de l’Enfant Terrible, which is made with Poulsard.
I would definitely purchase this Wasenhaus wine again and let it age for some time. I want to see how it evolves and whether it would still trick me into thinking it could be a Poulsard. Only time will tell.
Music:
As for the music pairing — these are subjectively great wines that can also be objectively great, depending on how open-minded you are. I highly recommend them to any wine enthusiast, because I think everyone should step outside their comfort zone and experience something different.
The same goes for music. Not every piece speaks to everyone, but it is all worth at least one listen — and then you can decide if it is for you or not. With that sentiment in mind, I want to pair my German wine experience with Kraftwerk’s Tour de France.
A funny story: the melody Kraftwerk used is a direct quote from Hindemith’s Flute Sonata. I never knew this until someone commented on a performance video of mine years ago — a delightful little discovery.
I am not a Kraftwerk aficionado per se, but I have deep respect for their work. The group certainly carved out their own sound and created an entirely new musical subgenre.
Just like these wines and the music — which may not be for everyone — everything in life is still worth trying, because it is good and genuinely different. It might open up a new appreciation for something you never actively sought out.
B-rolls:
Photos of all the other wines mentioned for a comparison.
2021 Sylvain Pataille Fleur de Pinot Marsannay Rosé
2020 Jean-François Ganevat Poulsard Cuvée de L’Enfant Terrible
